When in Paris, there is one wine bar you shouldn’t miss. In chic Saint-Germain-des-Prés, just behind busy Boulevard St-Germain, lilliputian La Crèmerie is a place that makes you smile.

Whether you are up to natural wines from the Loire or Burgundian classics, you will find something from these shelves. The pricing of the wines is moderate compared to many St-Germain spots popular with tourists, and the corkage fee is 10 euro if you enjoy the bottle on the premises.

Champagne enthusiasts will also find excellent bottles at this wine bar. Vouette & Sorbée’s Fidele. Emmanuel Lassaigne‘s Les Vignes de Montgueux. Anselme Selosse‘s bottlings. Organic bubbles from Eliane Delalot – a fairly new vigneron in the westernmost part of the Marne Valley.

Even though I’m known for never turning down a glass of champagne, before my recent visit to La Crèmerie I had spent a month in Champagne, so I decided to opt for something else. Tête en l’air turned out to be really delicious biodynamic bubbles from Manoir de la Tête Rouge, Loire.

As a Finn like, I was also drawn to Barolo Meriame by Riikka and Jyrki Sukula, an ambitious Finnish couple who moved to Serralunga d’Alba, Piedmont, in early 2000s to make wine. 

Besides La Crèmerie’s well-curated wine selection and delicious saucisson, burrata and terrine, there are two other reasons that make this place stand out in a gastro mecca like Paris. 

The first is the history of the place, which dates back to 1880 when it was a real crèmerie selling dairy products. That history is still reflected in the old roof and other details of this wine bar.

Another reason is the character behind the counter. Born and living in Paris 6ème, Emmanuel Giraud has been working at La Crèmerie for two years. Besides great wine recommendations, he has fascinating stories to tell. Once we start talking, my plan to “just pop in” for un plat de Saucisson d’Ardèche goes out the window. I end up staying for hours.

Giraud’s path as author, researcher and performer has taken him to various places, including Rome:

”Years ago, I worked at Villa Medici where I organised various gastro-spectacles for like-minded people. That period in Rome was among the most amazing years of my career, and I continue to cherish that spirit in everything I do.”

As soon as I see the salmon plate that two Parisiennes next to me have ordered, I feel like ordering the same. Fresh salmon from the Orkney Islands, served on a cucumber bed with pepper, dill, lemon peel, radish and redcurrants.

With this wonderfully simple dish, I can no longer resist the call of champagne. Giraud kindly opens Les Vignes de Montgueux by the glass for me. A combo can’t get any fresher than this!

And for anyone with a serious craving for saucisson, La Crèmerie is one of my favourite places (along Au Passage) to savour it in Paris.

As La Crèmerie is about to close for the holidays, Giraud invites me to join him and a few others for the ‘final bacchanals’ later in the evening.

”Lectures and open discussion in Epicurean spirit!”

Sounds intriguing and would surely benefit my French skills. But an evening with friends in Gambetta wins. I am too tired to come back.

Even though it’s August and high season in Paris, during my long lunch at La Crèmerie it was mostly locals popping in to buy wine or stay for some food. 

”We have a really nice melangé of neighbourhood people and tourists here. I like it that way.”

In my experience, La Crèmerie is also great for solo travellers. Surrounded by this atmosphere, you won’t feel lonely. 

My tip? Come here without any hurry. Park yourself at the bar counter. Listen to Emmanuel Giraud’s stories and let your appetite grow when you see what he carries to other tables.

Or come with a natural wine loving friend and make sure to book since their 15 seats tend to fill up quickly. At the end, your bill may be slightly bigger than you had in mind, but the entire experience at La Crèmerie is well worth it.

9 Rue des Quatre Vents (Paris 6ème). Mon–Sun 18–22:30. Tel: +33 (0)1 43 54 99 30. Metro: Odeon (line 4) / Mabillon (line 10).