Revived: August 30, 2026 (Published: February 1, 2017)

My dream before heading to Northern Rhône in winter 2017 was to meet Dard & Ribo, the iconic duo behind some of the region’s most distinctive wines. Our winter visit turned out to be one of the most memorable in my books.

As far back as I can remember, I’ve been fascinated by the taste profile and texture of Northern Rhône wines. Especially the reds. Unfortunately, here in Finland I do not get to taste them – the whites, in particular – as often as I’d love to. One needs to travel to the spot.

Before heading to the region with my Rhône-loving friends Mikko and Ilkka, we agreed that each of us should come up with one principal wish. Eager to expand my view on white Rhône, my wish was crystal-clear: René-Jean Dard and François Ribo.

MY FIRST DARD & RIBO CRUSH

I have been a Dard & Ribo fan ever since I tasted their C’est Le Printemps at the legendary natural wine mecca Aux Crieurs de Vin in Troyes. I was immediately captivated by the effortless charm of this medium-bodied, tastebud-tingling red wine.

Even this ”easy-going and not so serious rouge”, as René-Jean likes to describe it, is one hell of a wine in its charmingly vivacious essence. It’s packed with swinging blackberry, delicious acid line and that archetypal, freshly ground black pepper aroma I so love in Northern Rhône reds. A great and affordable example of an easy-to-drink yet soulful red wine.

ICE-COLD MORNING IN MERCUROL

Receiving a reply to my visit inquiry from René-Jean Dard in early 2017, I couldn’t feel happier. But on the outskirts of Mercurol – the village where the Dard & Ribo cellar is located – our navigator gets lost. There are no signs, just rows of fruit trees that stick out like ghosts in their wintery nakedness.

As we arrive at the winery close to the A7 motorway, I’m not sure if we have picked the best moment. René-Jean, you see, had confirmed me the date but didn’t specify the time slot.

First we meet a man with twinkling eyes and woollen cap. François Ribo. He leads us to René-Jean who is glueing labels to the bottles. Time to perform with my lousy French!

The building is rustic, reflecting craftsmanship and devotion for making the best possible quality on the ”let the vineyards speak” principle. Having visited plenty of wine cellars in wintery Europe, I am well aware how to prepare for the cold. And we are Finns.

Still, at Dard & Ribo we realise the day is freezing. René-Jean has to warm up his hands by blowing them every now and then. Our week in Northern Rhône has been well below minus 10 ºC at night.

DECADES OF MINIMAL INTERVENTION

Having started in 1984 with one inherited vineyard hectare in the heart of AOC Saint-Joseph, the production of this nowadays 8,5-hectare estate is still minuscule; between 28,000 and 40,000 bottles depending on the year. No wonder Dard & Ribo’s bottlings are so sought-after in various markets and loved in the natural wine circles of Paris.

Of these hectares, roughly five are in the Crozes-Hermitage appellation, a fair two in Saint-Joseph and less than one on the prestigious Hermitage hill.

After becoming friends during their wine studies, René-Jean and François were among the first Northern Rhône winemakers who intervened as little as possible in winemaking. This was a time when natural hardly existed as a term.

”All this buzz about natural wines seems quite funny to us since we have been making wines like this for nearly three decades”, René-Jean says and elaborates:

”We simply continued the environmental-friendly way my father had adopted – avoiding chemical stuff on the vines and adding only a tiny amount of sulphur upon bottling. Instead of tailoring our wines for current palates, we just want to make wines we like ourselves. Wines that would be pleasant to drink without years of cellaring so typical for many wines of our region”.

WINES FOR INTERNATIONAL PALATE

The customers found their estate early on, and today Dard & Ribo exports to nearly 20 countries.

”Japan is our biggest export market since the 1990s. They were ready for naturally made wines way before us Europeans. Thanks to Japanese visitors, I have learnt how to speak French in a clear way.”

In my mind, I thank all those Japanese. Talking in French while simultaneously translating for my travel buddies is swallowing my energies. But then, as I accidentally mumble something in Italian, it turns out René-Jean speaks it too. Che bello!

From that moment onwards the ice – if there ever was any – is broken for good. If someone had told me earlier this winter that I would be tasting with Monsieur Dard in italiano, I wouldn’t have believed.

FASCINATING WHITE BARREL SAMPLES

As René-Jean Dard admits they hardly accept any visitors, I feel really lucky. At wineries like theirs people always have hands full, and every visit means time away from the vineyards.

”We receive so many phone calls and visit inquiries that it’s impossible to reply let alone arrange visits. Rather, we let our wines on the market speak for themselves.”

And oh boy, they do. We start from a barrel room so low you have to bend upon entering.

Just like all ambitious and environment-conscious winemakers, Dard tirelessly talks about healthy vineyards, which are crucial when making wines without or with minimal sulphur. He also says that they want to highlight different terroirs by vinifying each plot separately.

We get to compare the terroirs with white barrel samples of harvest 2016. Never before have I realised how completely different two 100 % Roussannes from the same place can taste. While they charm with their completely distinct characters, the 100 % Marsanne is less acidic, oily on the palate, exhibiting beautiful aromas of almond, spices and marzipan.

Unlike most vignerons who concentrate on growing Syrah, the dark pride of Northern Rhône, more than one third of Dard & Ribo’s production is based on Marsanne and Roussanne. They spend 12 months in old 225-litre barriques. The barrel samples we get to taste are damn delicious, with a mouthwatering effect that prepares our palates for the reds to come.

SOULFUL REDS FOR INSTANT DRINKING

Dard & Ribo’s reds, in turn, are aged in 600-litre demi-muids as they are the best vessels for creating traditional-style Syrah. Contrary to many producers of the region, René-Jean and François make Syrah for early enjoyment. I’ve noticed that their medium-bodied, elegant, accessible red wines do not need years in the cellar to get rid of their sturdy character.

It is lovely to taste expressive, harmonious Crozes-Hermitage and Saint-Joseph from the barrels. I am charmed by their balance, beautifully gripping yet not harsh tannins and impressive length.

These samples tickle my tongue with a sophisticated potpourri of wild herbs, black pepper, violets, olives, liquorice root and cured meat. A far cry from that prominent oakiness typical of some producers.

WHITE HERMITAGE TO DIE FOR

In the beginning, these natural pioneers from two sides of the Rhône river (René-Jean from Tournon, François from Tain l’Hermitage) shared most of the winemaking. Today, their roles are complementary.

While François is responsible for the health of the vineyards, René-Jean concentrates on cellar practices. He also takes care of customer relations and paperwork – ”a lot of administrative work”, as he sighs. However, the tasting of fermenting juices and all winemaking decisions are still made together.

As our tasting proceeds, I notice a growing craving inside me to taste Dard & Ribo Hermitage Blanc. They produce this white rarity only 200 bottles per year. So I casually ask about the wine, and contrary to my expectations we get to taste the 2015! Wow.

Made 100 % of Roussanne, this youngster shows pure, fresh and elegant character with plenty of yellow fruit, white flowers and subtle oak aromas, and smoothly running texture to die for. The lingering finish stays on the palate for nearly 15 minutes. What a seducer!

When I playfully ask René-Jean whether he would sell me a bottle, he shakes his head. With a smile.

A REASON TO RETURN?

Unfortunately, we have planned such a tight schedule that there is no time to taste any Dard & Ribo reds from the bottle. Feeling embarrassed for having to leave way too early, René-Jean just winks at us:

”Maybe we leave something for the next time too…?”

With that in mind, I couldn’t have wished for a better ending to our visit. After hugging goodbye and receiving a bottle of white Saint-Joseph 2015 as a gift, we walk out. The snowflakes dance around us.

Despite their early drinkability, I would love to try some older Dard & Ribo vintages. So far my oldest bottle has been white Saint-Joseph 2007. Quirky and spicy, clearly developed wine that had funny-looking golden chips in the bottle. But the wine was flawless.

In fact, despite this common talk regarding the bottle variation of natural wines, I haven’t tasted a tired or faulty bottle of Dard & Ribo yet.

This visit wonderfully crystallised our Northern Rhône trip, during which we were stunned by the spectacular level of white wines. So next time when someone starts nagging about fat and flat, overtly exotic, way-too-spicy Rhône whites, I just say:

Go to Northern Rhône, pick the right addresses and let your tastebuds turn white.

Or pay a visit to Le Verre Volé, one of the nicest corner bistros in Paris 10th, and order white Dard & Ribo for your meal. You won’t be disappointed.

 

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UPDATE (2026): The philosophy of Dard & Ribo remains untouched – the estate stays strictly private and closed to general wine tourism. Their wines, however, remain widely available at natural wine bars and shops across several countries.