Every wine trip starts with a dream. Mine – before heading to Northern Rhône – was to meet Dard & Ribo, the iconic duo behind some of the region’s most distinctive wines. 

As long as my memory goes, I have been fascinated by the taste profile and texture of Northern Rhône wines, especially the reds. Unfortunately, here in Finland one does not get to taste them – the whites, in particular – very often, so the best way to taste more is to go to the spot.

Before heading to the region with my Rhône-loving friends Mikko and Ilkka, we agreed that each of us should present one principal wish. Eager to expand my view on white Rhône, my reply was prompt: René-Jean Dard and François Ribo.

MY FIRST DARD & RIBO CRUSH

I have been a Dard & Ribo fan ever since I tasted their C’est Le Printemps at the legendary natural wine mecca Aux Crieurs de Vin in Troyes, Champagne. I was immediately captivated by the effortless charm of this medium-bodied, tastebud-tingling red wine.

Even this ”easygoing and not so serious rouge” as René-Jean likes to put it, is one hell of a wine in its charmingly vivacious essence. It’s packed with swinging blackberry and that archetypal black pepper aroma I so love in Northern Rhône reds. A great and affordable example of an easy-to-drink yet soulful red wine.

AN ICE-COLD MORNING IN MERCUROL

Receiving a reply to my visit inquiry from René-Jean Dard in January 2017, I couldn’t feel happier. But on the outskirts of Mercurol – the village where the Dard & Ribo cellar is located – our navigator gets lost. There are no signs, just rows and rows of fruit trees that stick out like ghosts in their wintery nakedness.

As we arrive at their winery close to the A7 motorway, I’m not sure if we have picked the best moment. René-Jean has confirmed us the day but hasn’t specified any time slot.

First, we meet a man with twinkling eyes and woollen cap. François Ribo. He leads us to René-Jean who is glueing labels to the bottles. Time to perform with my lousy French!

The building is rustic, reflecting craftmanship and devotion for making the best possible quality, on “let the vineyards speak” principle. Having visited numerous wine cellars in wintery Europe, I am well aware how to prepare for the coldness.

Still, at Dard & Ribo we soon realise the day is ice-cold. Even René-Jean has to warm up his hands by blowing them every and and then. Our entire week in Northern Rhône has been freezing: well below minus 10 ºC at night.

THREE DECADES OF MINIMAL INTERVENTION

Having started in 1984 with just 1 inherited vineyard hectare in the heart of AOC Saint-Joseph, the production of this nowadays 8,5-hectare estate is still minuscule. Between 28,000 and 40,000 bottles depending on the year. No wonder Dard & Ribo’s bottlings are so sought-after on various markets and loved in Parisian natural wine circles.

Of these hectares, roughly five are located across the Crozes-Hermitage appellation, a fair two in Saint-Joseph and less than a hectare on prestigious Hermitage hill.

After befriending each other during their wine studies, René-Jean and François were among the first Northern Rhône winemakers who intervened as little as possible in winemaking. This was a time when ’natural’ hardly existed as a term.

”All this buzz about natural wines seems quite funny to us since we have been making wines like this for nearly three decades”, Rene-Jean says and elaborates:

“We simply continued the environmental-friendly way my father had adopted – avoiding chemical stuff on the vines and adding only a tiny amount of sulphur upon bottling. Instead of tailoring our wines for current palates, we just want to make wines we like ourselves. Wines that would be pleasant to drink without years of cellaring so typical for many wines of our region”.

WINES FOR INTERNATIONAL PALATE

The customers found their estate early on, and today Dard & Ribo imports its wines to nearly 20 countries. A warm tone appears in René-Jean’s voice as he talks about the Japanese:

”Japan is our biggest export market since the 1990s. They were ready for naturally made wines way before us Europeans. Thanks to our Japanese visitors, I have learnt how to speak French in a clear way.”

Silently in my mind, I thank all those Japanese as talking in French while translating for my travel companions swallows my energies. But then it happens: as I accidentally mumble something in Italian, it turns out René-Jean speaks it too. Che bello!

From that moment onwards the ice, if there ever was any, is broken for good. If someone had said  earlier that this winter I would be tasting with Monsieur Dard in italiano, I wouldn’t have believed.

FASCINATING WHITE BARREL SAMPLES

As René-Jean Dard admits they hardly accept any visitors, we feel really lucky. At wineries like theirs people always have hands full, and every visit means time away from the vineyards.

”We receive so many phone calls and visit inquiries that it is impossible to reply let alone arrange visits. We rather let our wines speak for themselves.”

And oh boy, they do. We start from a barrel room so low you nearly have to bend upon entering. Like all ambitious environment-conscious winemakers, Dard tirelessly talks about the significance of healthy vineyards (more than crucial if wines are made without or with minimal sulphur). He also says that that they want to highlight different terroirs by vinifying each plot separately.

The difference between the terroirs shows in the white barrique samples of 2016. Never before have I realised how different two 100 % Roussannes from the same place can taste. Whereas they charm with their completely distinct characters, their 100 % Marsanne is less acidic, oily in mouthfeel, exhibiting beautiful aromas of almond, spices and marzipan.

Unlike most vignerons who concentrate on growing Syrah, the dark pride of Northern Rhône, more than one third of Dard & Ribo’s production is based on Marsanne and Roussanne. They spend 12 months in old 225-litre barriques. The barrel samples we get to taste are damn delicious, with a mouthwatering effect that prepares our palates for the reds to come.

SOULFUL REDS FOR IMMEDIATE DRINKING

Dard & Ribo’s reds, in turn, are aged in 600-litre demi-muids since they are the best vessels for creating traditional-style Syrah. Contrary to many producers of the region, René-Jean and François prefer to make Syrah for early enjoyment. Their medium-bodied, elegant and nicely accessible red wines do not need years in the cellar to get rid of their sturdy character.

It is lovely to taste expressive and harmonious Crozes-Hermitage and Saint-Joseph samples from the barrels. I am charmed by their balance, beautifully gripping yet not hard tannins and impressive length. These barrel samples tickle my tongue with a sophisticated potpourri of wild herbs, black pepper, violets, liquorice root, black olives and cured meat. A far cry from prominent oakiness typical of some modern Rhône producers.

WHITE HERMITAGE TO DIE FOR

In the beginning, these natural scene pioneers from two sides of the Rhône river (René-Jean from Tournon and Francois from Tain l’Hermitage) shared most of the winemaking. Today, their roles are complementary.

While François is responsible for the health of the vineyards, René-Jean concentrates on cellar practices. He also takes care of customer relations and paperwork – ”a lot of administrative work”, as he sighs. However, the tasting of fermenting juices and all winemaking decisions are still made together.

As our tasting proceeds, I notice a growing craving inside me to taste Dard & Ribo Hermitage Blanc. They produce this white rarity only 200 bottles per year. So I casually ask about the wine, and contrary to my expectations we get to taste the 2015! Wow.

Made 100 % of Roussanne, it is pure, fresh and elegant with plenty of yellow fruit, white flowers, subtle oak aromas and a smoothly running texture to die for. Its lingering finish still feels in the mouth 15 minutes later. What a seducer! When I playfully ask René-Jean whether he would sell one bottle, he shakes his head with a smile.

A REASON TO RETURN?

Unfortunately, our schedule is so tight that there is no time to taste any reds from the bottle. I feel embarrassed for us having to leave way too early, but René-Jean just winks his eye:

”Maybe we leave something for the next time too…?”

Thinking that way, we couldn’t have wished for a better ending to our visit. After hugging for goodbyes and receiving a bottle of white Saint-Joseph 2015 as a gift, we walk out. The snowflakes dance around us like never before.

Despite their early drinkability, I would love to try some older Dard & Ribo vintages. So far my oldest bottle has been white Saint-Joseph 2007. Quirky and spicy, clearly developed wine that had funny-looking golden chips inside the bottle. But the content was flawless.

In fact, despite common talk regarding bottle variation of natural wines, I have not yet tasted a tired or faulty bottle of Dard & Ribo.

Visiting Dard & Ribo wonderfully crystallised our Northern Rhône trip, during which we were stunned by the spectacular level of white wines. So, next time when someone starts nagging about fat and flat, overtly exotic, way-too-spicy Rhône whites, I just say:

Go to Northern Rhône, pick the right addresses and let your tastebuds turn white.

Or pay a visit to Le Verre Volé, one of the nicest corner bistros in Paris 10th, and order white Dard & Ribo to escort your meal. You won’t be disappointed.