Revived: August 23, 2026 (Published: May 28, 2017)
Hidden in the historic city of Troyes, Aux Crieurs de Vin is my favourite spot for grower champagne and natural wine in the Aube.
Since 2015 my trips have often taken me to the Aube, the quietly beautiful and rural Southern tip of the Champagne region. Unlike in Reims and Épernay, there is not much evening buzz in the Aube. Aux Crieurs de Vin is the place where many of us end up.
THE BELOVED LEGEND IN THE AUBE
Although many restaurant people have a stunning memory for the customers and their preferences and little caprices, Jean-Michel Wilmes and Franck Windel are a league of their own. I still remember how warmly this power duo greeted me when I came to Crieurs for the second time.
Jean-Michel’s knowledge of wine is huge, but even more impressive is his down-to-earth approach. This guy clearly loves what he does and creates a unique atmosphere around him. He always surprises me with something new or unexpected. A true Master of his craft!
Founded in 1998, Aux Crieurs de Vin is one of the oldest natural wine bars in France. It is a place where I first got to taste Dard & Ribo as well as Ruppert-Leroy‘s biodynamic champagnes. Now these two are among my favourite domaines.
This is also a place where I have enjoyed several unforgettable lunches and dinners with one of my favourite champagne makers, Manu Lassaigne. Another essential element of my Troyes visits is staying overnight at Hôtel Comtes de Champagne. This old, wooden building with wobbly floors and whispering walls, is located just around the corner.
CHAMPAGNE AT DELIGHTFUL PRICES
At Crieurs the pricing of champagnes is so friendly that you always end up carrying home a few bottles. For instance, in 2017, they still sell Vincent Laval’s Brut Nature (one of my favourite NV champagnes) for 50 euros, cheaper than elsewhere.
Also outstanding Aubois producers such as Olivier Horiot, Charles Dufour and Remi Leroy are well available. This bistro also serves its own in-house bubbles: delicious Champagne Aux Crieurs de Vin is made by talented young vigneron, Aurélien Gerbais.
For Northern Rhône fans there are top producers such as Pierre Gonon and Thierry Allemand on the shelves. But despite your preferences, let Jean-Michel and Franck suggest and decide for you. If you fall in love with the wine they pour in your glass, it is nice to buy that bottle to take home.
A MEAT-LOVER’S LIVING ROOM
Located in the heart of the picturesque old Troyes, Aux Crieurs de Vin is well worth visiting if you enjoy authentic atmosphere, classic meat-based bistro food and local company. It feels like your living room; a safe corner in this ever-crazier world.
If I have to find one flaw, Aux Crieurs de Vin is not for vegetarians and even less for vegans. Upon request, they may put together something green.
Yet classic bistro dishes made of top meat define the kitchen here. Just one note: I will never understand the charm of andouillette, which is very popular at Crieurs. Are you fond of it?
Aux Crieurs de Vin
4 Place Jean Jaurès, Troyes
Tue-Sat 10–00 –> lunch 12–14, dinner 19:30–23
Tel: +33 (0)3 25 40 01 01
UPDATE (2026): Aux Crieurs de Vin is now listed in the Michelin Guide for its traditional cuisine.
