Hidden in the historic city of Troyes, rustic Aux Crieurs de Vin is my favourite champagne & natural wine spot in Southern Champagne.
Over the last two years, my trips have often taken me to the Aube, the quietly beautiful and rural Southern tip of the Champagne region. Unlike in Reims and Épernay, there are not many evening places in the Aube. Aux Crieurs de Vin is the beloved legend among them.
Although many restaurant people have a stunning memory for the customers and their preferences and little caprices, Jean-Michel Wilmes and Franck Windel are a league of their own. I still remember how warmly this power duo greeted me when I arrived at Crieurs for the second time.
Jean-Michel’s knowledge on wine is immense, but even more impressive is his down-to-earth approach. This guy clearly loves what he does and creates a unique atmosphere around him. Every time he surprises me with something new or unexpected. A true Master in his work!
Founded in 1998, Aux Crieurs de Vin is one of the oldest natural wine bars in France. It is a place where I first got to taste Dard & Ribo as well as Ruppert-Leroy‘s biodynamic champagnes. Now these two are among my favourite domaines.
This is a place where I have enjoyed several unforgettable lunches and dinners with champagne maker Manu Lassaigne. Another essential element of my Troyes visits is staying overnight at Hotel Comtes de Champagne. Old, wooden building with wobbly floors and whispering walls, it is located just around the corner.
Here the pricing of champagnes is so delightful that you end up carrying bottles home every time. For instance, I still find Vincent Laval‘s Brut Nature (one of my favourite NV champagnes) with 50 euro, cheaper than anywhere else.
Also outstanding Aubois producers such as Olivier Horiot, Charles Dufour and Remi Leroy are well available. This bistro also serves own in-house bubbles: delicious Champagne Aux Crieurs de Vin is made by talented young Aurélien Gerbais.
For Northern Rhône fans there are top producers such as Thierry Allemand on the shelves. But despite your preferences, let Jean-Michel and Franck decide for you. If you fall in love with the wine they pour in your glass, it is nice to buy that bottle to take home.
In a nutshell: Aux Crieurs de Vin is worth visiting if you enjoy genuine atmosphere, classic bistro food and the company of local people. It feels like a living room; a safe corner in this ever-crazier world.
If I have to find one flaw, Crieurs is NOT a place for vegetarians or vegans. On your request, they may out together something green for you. Classic bistro dishes of first-class meat define the kitchen here. Just one note: I will never understand the charm of andouillette.
4 Place Jean Jaurès (Troyes). Tue-Sat 12–14 and 19:30–23. Tel: +33 (0)3 25 40 01 01.
