If you get tired of tourist masses around the most iconic spots of Paris, head to Moncoeur Belleville! Just above hip Parc de Belleville, this cosy corner bistro offers stunning views over Paris and a perfect setting for a delicious Sunday get-together.

Living in Paris (in the 20th arrondissement) half of the summer, I spent most of my days walking, running and cycling around the city. As my 5-week stay stretched to mid-August, especially on Sundays it often felt as if half of the restaurants were closed.

Luckily I happened to pass by Moncoeur Belleville on my first summer Sunday in Paris. This laid-back restaurant isn’t about culinary fireworks, but it’s a place you always leave with a smile on your face. And its Sunday brunch (19 €) is among the nicest in Paris.

Moncoeur Belleville’s panoramic terrace is highly popular among the locals, so book a table or go early – or later when the brunch is about to end. If the restaurant looks crowded, don’t turn away. Despite people waiting for a table, it never takes long to fit in.

Also, if you come really late, this place is open past midnight on Sunday. Not that typical for Paris!

On Sunday afternoons the terrace of is favoured by young hipsters and 30+ couples with babies. But you can as well spot stylish elderly ladies reading books and wearing large hats from another era.

In summer weekends people gather to Parc Belleville for outdoor concerts and DJ gigs. One of the coolest ways to blend among the Parisians!

Once I popped in for a lunch during the week and ordered classic bavette (see the main photo of this blog post). Still among the most delicious bavettes I have eaten – thanks to that super pungent mustard served with tender, very well prepared meat dish.

And the wine? Just order a ¼, ½ or whole carafe of simple Sancerre and enjoy this fascinating residential neighbourhood with magnificent urban views. At least for a wine professional like me, it feels rejuvenating to completely forget about analytical tasting every now and then.

For summer thirst, Moncoeur Belleville offers easy-going organic wines from Languedoc, Côtes-du-Rhône and Bourgogne. Cocktails, too, are delicious! I never tried any of their red wines as July-August 2016 was unbelievably hot in Paris (and I was already training for Marathon du Médoc).

Unlike in some Trip Advisor reviews, I have always received hearty and groovy service at Moncoeur Belleville. Sometimes you need to wait a bit, but when a place is hugely popular, patience is a virtue.

After a meal at Moncoeur Belleville, I recommend walking around Belleville to catch a glimpse of how the locals live. Also, if Edith Piaf ‘s voice gives you goose bumps, Belleville is the place to be! One of the greatest voices of our times spent her childhood just around the corner, in 72 Rue de Belleville.

 

1 Rue des Envierges. Wed-Sun nonstop 8–02 (Sunday brunch from 12 to 16). Tel: +33 (0)1 43 66 38 54 or book here. Metro Line: 11 (Pyrénées), 2 (Couronnes).