When I think about the people and places I love most in Champagne, one name comes first: Aline Serva, the heart of Au Bon Manger. Together with her husband Eric, she runs this little épicerie in Reims.

If you are into excellent charcuterie, cheeses and salads while sipping awesome grower champagne, don’t hesitate! There is a risk you will fall in love.

Everyone who has been to Au Bon Manger knows Aline’s laughter. Infectious, sincere laughter that comes from a place where goodwill and joie de vivre embrace. No wonder that after long days of visiting champagne-makers, I feel at home when I open the blue door and hear her laugh.

Coming from Paris, Aline and Eric had completely different professions before establishing their gastronomic business. Aline worked for a Japanese fashion designer while Eric was making radio shows for the national radio station, France Musique. Eight years ago, they opened Au Bon Manger.

Au Bon Manger is the best place in Reims to sample grower champagnes. The selection is carefully curated, and you always find something exciting on the shelves. In fact, SO exciting that you simply lose track of time. It happens to me every single time!

Despite my best intentions, so far I haven’t managed to leave Au Bon Manger without rushing to catch my Paris-bound train, dragging a heavy bag full of wonderful champagne bottles.

But let’s not talk only about bubbles as Au Bon Manger without eating is simply inconceivable. Charcuteries and patés are top-notch, salads are generous and tasty. If you are short of time, they will happily wrap you a baguette to take away. From the counter, you’ll also find gourmet treats to take home.

Even if you only spend a day in Reims, Au Bon Manger is just a 10-minute walk from the train station. For bubblephiles and natural wine lovers alike, this épicerie is a little heaven.

Favoured also by champagne makers, you may catch a glimpse of your favourite vignerons – or even end up spending the evening with them, just like I once did with Jérôme Prévost and his family.

When Au Bon Manger gets crowded, you never feel awkward standing there solo with a glass of bubbles in hand. During Le Printemps des Champagnes week in April, the place is bustling with people. It’s great to mingle with champagne lovers from all around the world and toast for life together.

To be honest, though, I love even more those peaceful morning moments when Aline and Eric are just about to open the doors of this Epicurean heaven.

The walls are decorated with portraits of Champagne vignerons such as Vincent Laval, Olivier Horiot and Emmanuel Brochet. Behind the camera is a Danish photographer and wine writer Thomas Iversen, whose blog has long been a must-read for grower champagne enthusiasts.

My most recent visit to Au Bon Manger was brief yet one of the most memorable. I arrived early enough to chat with Aline over my birthday lunch before heading to Avize. She seated me at the table with a stylish French gentleman, and we soon got talking.

When he heard it’s my birthday, he insisted on buying me the two bottles of Emmanuel Brochet‘s Le Mont Benoît I had reserved. What an incredibly sweet gesture from a complete stranger!

Every time I visit Champagne, small miracles seem to happen here and there. There is something magical in the region, so if I can explore it for the rest of my life, I will die a happy woman.

Meanwhile, I hope there are still many evenings to come at Épicerie Au Bon Manger.

 

7 Rue Courmeaux, Reims. Tue-Sat 10–20 (or longer to varying degrees). Tel: +33 (0)3 260 345 29.