The best thing in Paris is observing local people over a cup of coffee. I may not know that much about coffee-making, but just like Agent Dale Cooper from Twin Peaks, I surely recognise a cup of damn good coffee! Try these Parisian gems for aromas and atmosphere.

BROKEN BISCUITS

In every city there are places where I keep returning to. In Paris, one of those beloved corners is lush and beautiful Square Maurice Gardette in the heart of the 11ème arrondissement.

This adorable square has a strong residential vibe. Old uncles reading newspapers in the park while little kids are frolicking around. The surrounding houses are magnificently renovated.

In one of them, on a peaceful passageway full of small artisan boutiques, is tiny Broken Biscuits. The pretty entrance looks like a film set, and the moment you open the door you feel like at home. Having established this café-patisserie two years ago, the young Irish-British couple is baking new pastries to their counter and playing great soul music.

The latte here is superbly textured and tasty, with a particularly lingering finish. As I sip it with a delicious almond tart, neighbourhood people and stylish hipsters pop in. They all seem to know each other. Next time I’ll try something salty and bring Someone Precious with me.

10 Passage Rochebrune (Paris 11ème). Wed-Fri 8:30–18, Sat-Sun 10–19. Metro: Père-Lachaise (line 2) / Saint-Maur (line 3) / Saint-Ambroise (line 9).

BOOT CAFÉ

A sky-blue wooden door with old Cordonnerie letters. A space so tiny you hardly fit in. In popular and chic Marais, the prettiest arrondissement of Paris, yet enough off the beaten track.

Opened in early 2014, at Boot Café au lait is prepared with utter care and accompanied by a cute smile. There are only six seats so if you don’t get yours straight away, hang on. After these cookies you’ve forgotten that you had to wait. Soft shades of lilac and cream white make this space calming even though we nearly sit on each other’s lap.

To sum it up, among other customers chic is the keyword. I sit next to an extravagantly stylish Parisian couple and two Chinese fashionistas with huge shopping bags. However, this charming coffee heaven is light years away from those super fancy and polished Marais spots.

19 Rue du Pont aux Choux (Paris 3ème). Open daily from 10 to 18. Metro: Saint-Sébastien – Froissart (line 8) / Oberkampf (lines 5, 9).

LE PETIT NOIR

Near funky Canal Saint-Martin, Le Comptoir Général is an exciting mixture of a cultural centre, African museum, bar-restaurant, plant shop, music venue and second-hand clothing mecca. Known for its off-beat, unpretentious ambience, this complex attracts locals and travellers who love to chill out while catching a glimpse of Franco-African history.

I still remember Le Petit Noir‘s LCG – one of the best coffees I have enjoyed in Paris. Although it took a while to prepare, nobody in the queue was complaining or sighing out loud. The result was well worth waiting for: perfectly creamy, thick and smooth texture melts in your mouth.

Tumble yourself in one of the chairs or enjoy your coffee by the window. The sense of time is easily lost here. Last spring I ended up watching the raindrops whipping the window for two hours. If that’s not a true sign of feeling good, then what is?

80 Quai Jemmapes (Paris 10ème). The centre is open daily from 11 to 02. Metro: Jacques Bonsergent (line 5) / Goncourt (line 11).

LES SAINTES CHÉRIES

Furnished with lollipop colours, funny animals and cactuses, I fell in love with Les Saintes Chéries right away. But inspiring interior and hearty service would never be enough if the coffee wasn’t good.

Luckily the cappuccino is fluffy and featherlight on my lips, bursting with flavour. Also ginger juice and avocado smoothie are definite must-tries here. Their small boutique downstairs sells nearly everything from furniture and jewelry to retro textiles.

If you are not in a hurry afterwards, walk along Rue du Château d’Eau. After trendy cafés and quirky bistros, the street changes completely. You will pass masses of African guys hanging in front of noisy beauty parlours, waiting for their missuses to finish hair & nail sessions. This end of Rue du Château d’Eau has not yet been hit by gentrification that is rapidly changing once so edgy 10th arrondissement into a fascinating bobo playground.

41 Rue du Château d’Eau (Paris 10ème). Open daily 11–19. Metro: Château d’Eau (line 4).

EDIT (December 2017): Looks like this pretty café does exist anymore. Walking by, I only saw a decor & gift shop under the label of Les Saintes Chéries.

TEN BELLES & MYRTHE

Laid-back Paris 10ème has countless cosy cafés but if I have to pick just one, Ten Belles is my address when I want well-brewed coffee from local beans at a relaxed setting.

Behind the adjoining door you’ll find Myrthe, a great epicerie for delicious gluten-free pastries, tasty teas and juices as well as healthy veggie lunches (last time I enjoyed a rice salad with 5 €). Likewise, you can buy cheeses, marmalades and confitures to take home.

Or grab a bottle of natural wine and some cheese, walk 100 metres to Canal Saint-Martin and blend among the locals. For a Finn spending summers by the sea, this water is small but there’s certain magic when the sun goes down and colors the water red. On a summer evening on the canal bank you may win the heart of a True Parisian.

10 Rue de la Grange aux Belles (Paris 10ème). Mon-Fri: 8–17, Sat-Sun: 9–18 (Ten Belles). Mon-Sat: 10–20, Sun: 11–18 (Myrthe). Metro: Colonel Fabien (line 2) / Jacques Bonsergent (line 5).

RADIO DAYS

Living in Paris 20ème last summer, I daily walked or cycled along Rue Alibert on my way home. There is something cheerful in these hoods, though the intersection of Alibert and Rue Bichat shall always be remembered for horrible November 2015 shootings towarded at Le Carillon and Le Petit Cambodge – both places I used to go to.

Just a stone’s throw away is a relatively new café called Radio Days. It charms with great coffee, awesome service and old gramophone that plays the albums you pick from the shelves. Popular among trendy 30+ people, this little café was one of my Paris favourites last summer.

15 Rue Alibert (Paris 10ème). Mon & Wed-Fri: 8:30–17, Sat-Sun:10–18. Metro: Goncourt (line 11).