The food and wine scene in 11th arrondissement of Paris is well worth exploring. If you love tasty, affordable food and exciting wines in relaxed settings, discover my favourite food and wine spots in Paris 11.

 

AU PASSAGE

Cosy and cheerful wine bistro Au Passage is located on a dull alley where you wouldn’t expect to find such a gem. I love this Paris 11 food and wine address for its petits plats prepared of top-notch ingredients with love. What’s more, these delicious dishes come with hearty service.

Living in Paris last summer, I visited Au Passage every week. Laid-back atmosphere and well-chosen background music created a feeling so homey that I never felt alone, nibbling this and that at the counter. 

I have never eaten a tasteless or sloppily plated dish at Au Passage, thus its popularity does not surprise me. To make sure to fit in, book a table before your arrival in Paris.

If vivid atmospheres and interiors rich with patina appeal to you, you will fall for Au Passage. After dinner, there is nothing better than crossing Boulevard Beaumarchais for a nocturnal stroll in beautiful Le Marais district.

1bis Passage Saint-Sébastien. Mon-Sat 19–01:30. Metro: Richard Lenoir (line 5) / Filles du Calvaire (8).

 

CLAMATO

Even though I visit Paris 4 to 5 times a year and love trying new food and wine spots, there are certain places from where wild horses couldn’t keep me away. Half way of pulsating Rue de Charonne, Clamato is one of them.

Since my first Sunday lunch on the spot in summer 2014, I have kept going back for Clamato’s superbly fresh, colourful and exciting seafood dishes. For instance, tuna tataki with strawberries inspired me to add berries to home-cooked fish dishes. 

Part of the Septime restaurant group, Clamato is hugely popular. Arriving early, I have always fitted in as a solo traveller. On Sundays, this means going to the queue around 11:40–11:45 before they start serving food from the noon onwards.

If you favour something heavier, order Clamato’s fish n’chips with a twist and finish your meal with a real classic. For instance, tartelette with walnut syrup and chantilly sauce does the trick.

80 Rue de Charonne. Wed-Fri 19–23, Sat & Sun 12–23. Metro: Ledru-Rollin (line 8) / Charonne (9).

 

LOUIE LOUIE

In the middle of Paris 11 food and wine options, pizza is never the first thing in mind. But there are days when charcuterie or a sturdy salad is not enough. Days when you want something hearty, fluffy and easy/quick to eat.

Before discovering Louie Louie, I had never ordered a whole pizza in Paris. Yet, this charming place behind the bright blue façade won my heart.

The pizzas come in mostly classic flavours, but Louie Louie also surprises you. In particular, I loved the pizza topping of albacore tuna, gremolata (Italian mix of lemon zest, garlic and parsley), red onions and red peppers.

A far cry from ordinary pizzerias where you eat well and wash down your pizza with a jug of something ordinary. Meanwhile, Louie Louie’s wine list is intriguing. Last time I had an old-vine organic orange wine from Emilie Denavolo with the pizza described above. The combination rocked.

Another great thing is that Louie Louie is open seven days a week – also in August when many good Parisian restaurants close for holidays.

When the weather is summery, delicious pizzas can be taken away. Yet, I still prefer to enjoy them in comfortably noisy and warmly lit Louie Louie.

78 Rue de Charonne. Every day 12–14:30 and 19–23:30. Metro: Ledru-Rollin (line 8) / Charonne (9).

 

SEPTIME LA CAVE

Another member of the Septime group, Septime La Cave is a must-go spot if you like natural wines (approx. 150 various labels available) and blending among the locals (and more and more Americans).

One of the modern legends amongst the Paris 11th food and wine circles, this candle-lit wine bar & shop behind a robust wooden façade is a great meeting point. Also, it is a perfect arena to admire boho-stylish parisiens and parisiennes.

Just remember that this wine spot is so tiny that you often end up standing. personally, I don’t mind; it gives a better view for what’s going on.

The plates are small but tasty, so grab some friends along and go through the whole menu together. Natural wine lovers feel content here as Septime La Cave has a lot to offer, especially for the fans of recently deceased orange wine pioneer Radikon. 

I love this Paris 11th gem on cold winter evenings when it’s packed with people. In summer this wine bar easily gets too hot inside. Despite its bustling vibe, Septime La Cave closes at 11pm. Be smart and bear this in mind – not only once have I arrived too late.

3 Rue Basfroi. Every day 16–23. Metro: Ledru-Rollin (line 8) / Charonne (9).

 

BISTROT PAUL BERT

At the southern tip of Paris 11th, on Rue Paul Bert, wine-loving foodies have plenty to choose from. Attracting attention with innovative chefs and cuisine, Le 6 Paul Bert is the talk of my chef friends. 

For a genuine Paris 11 food and wine experience, I suggest you pay a pre-dinner visit to La Cave du Paul Bert, a natural wine boutique serving small plates with apéro. After that, it’s only 20 metres to Le Bistrot Paul Bert. 

This beloved bistro serves delightful food while making you drool over their comprehensive wine list. Service is lovely: traditional and attentive.

Despite us tourists having found there long ago, Bistrot Paul Bert is favoured by locals. You see entire clans, including chic grandparents, eating together.

During my recent visit I opted for light, savoury summer dishes – although Paul Bert is a place to order a massive classic boeuf of the best kind.

Wine pricing here is slightly higher than in other Parisian wine spots I favour. That said, besides the brilliant champagne selection ranging from cool vignerons to vintage gems (such as Salon, Dom Pérignon or Bollinger’s VVF), at Paul Bert you find them all. The red and white wine list stuns you as well.

18 Rue Paul Bert. Tue-Sat 12–14 and 19:30–23. Metro: Faidherbe-Chaligny (line 8) / Rue des Boulets (9).

 

LE PETIT KELLER

One of my latest Paris 11 food and wine discoveries is located on cross street between Charonne and Roquette.

As I step into Le Petit Keller on a windy October morning, Billie Holiday’s moaning voice welcomes me. The milieu is inviting. An elderly lady wearing lilac is sipping morning coffee at the counter while reading to her dog. The contrast between squared floor and bright green tables feeds the eye.

It’s still early, but the texture of café au lait and the simple toast with piquant rhubarb jam convince me so much that I decide to come back for a lunch.

As I come back later in the afternoon, Le Petit Keller is completely different. Buzzing with people. Loyal to my habits, I start with saucisson (which is excellent here) and simple Oriental eggs.

Many dishes come with a Japanese twist. The menu includes simplistic and tasty things such as sashimi, donburi and delicious grilled fish dishes.

Browsing the natural-focused wine list, I can’t help wishing I had company with me. Still, it makes me look forward to the next time, right?

And what about that jam they served on my morning toast? I ask about it, and the guy tells me they buy it from a nice epicerie-fruit shop next door.

I pop in to take a closer look. Unfortunately, rhubarb jam is momentarily sold out, but I buy other jams to take home and super fresh fruit to eat in the park nearby. Perfect spot for purchasing lil’ souvenirs!

13 Rue Keller. Thu-Fri 8:30–22:30 (breakfast 8:30–10:30 / lunch 12:15–15 / dinner 20–22:30) , Sat 10–23. Metro: Bastille (line 1) / Ledru-Rollin (8) / Voltaire (9).

 

DELICATESSEN CAVE

Paris 11th is so full of fantastic food and wine spots (caves à manger, bars à vin) that you are spoilt for choice. Still, we find places that stay with us.

One of my newest favourites is a relatively new small spot where I found myself several times last summer. Established by Mireille Langlois, Delicatessen Cave is a wine shop where you can taste really nice stuff.

At Delicatessen Cave, I love to cuddle on those silvery chairs and observe people on the street. Locals pop in to buy wine for dinner, some stay for a glass. 

If you love oysters, make sure to pop in on weekend when Mireille arranges oyster tastings. Or grab a bottle for an urban natural wine picnic by the water front of trendy Canal Saint-Martin. 

136 Rue Amelot. Tue-Fri 11–13 and 17–21, Sat 12–21, Sun 12–20. Metro: Oberkampf (lines 5 and 9) / Filles du Calvaire (8).