Revived: August 26, 2026 (Published: February 19, 2017)

As much as I love to try local wines when travelling, champagne is an exception to the rule. In Rome, my walks took me to Remigio, a tiny enoteca favoured by the locals. If you love residential Rome and grower champagne, this is for you!

Four kilometres southeast of the Colosseum, in the Tuscolano district, Remigio is located on a quiet street where you would never expect to bump into a champagne paradise. Yet for eight years it has delighted local people with bubbles and cold cuts.

But yes, Remigio’s owner Fabrizio Pagliardi knows his stuff. Specialised in champagne and natural wine, he has created a fabulous grower champagne selection for Remigio.

Many of my favourite champagne makers – such as Vincent Laval, Jérôme Prévost, Emmanuel Lassaigne, Fred Savart, David Léclapart and Alex Chartogne – are available. What truly astounds me is that Vouette & Sorbée‘s Fidèle, Blanc d’Argile, Saignée de Sorbée, Textures, Sobre and Extrait are all available here. Even better, some in magnums!

In addition to Champagne, Remigio concentrates on French and Italian wines and German Rieslings. But this enoteca is not only about wine. Great music from 70s soul to old-school jazz and singer-songwriters play a big role here.

SIMPLE, TASTY CLASSICS TO EAT

For food, Remigio serves delicious classics such as vitello tonnato, pastrami, burrata and lasagna. Nevertheless, the cuisine is not solely Italian: you can, as well, treat yourself with a classic tartar or Danish smørrebrød.

The prices of the dishes vary between 10 and 15 euro. Around the happy hour, Remigio prepares pintxos to go with wine. Eating here is very informal.

That said, you can buy the wines to take home. While still digesting that delicious croque monsieur, I buy a bottle of Ruppert-Leroy Fosse-Grely, a biodynamic champagne that never lets me down.

My suggestion, overall? Grab a friend or two, hop on a metro and head towards Appio Latino / Tuscolano. Or do like I did, walk the whole way from Trastevere.

If you choose to walk this route, you won’t regret it. After bigger roads, you will find yourself on the 2,300-year-old, cobbled Via Appia Antica, the first highway built for the Roman Empire. Eventually, this road leads you to big and lush Parco della Caffarella, an unspoiled haven in the middle of hectic Rome.

It was a pity, indeed, that my stay in Rome was so short this time, as Dominique Moreau (the woman behind Marie-Courtin champagnes) was coming to Remigio a few days later. But you can’t always win.

Remigio Champagne e Vino
Via Santa Maria Ausiliatrice 15
Open daily nonstop 10:30–24
Metro: Furio Camillo, Colli Albani (line A)

UPDATE (2024): As Remigio’s social media updates stopped after 2019, it apparently did not survive the pandemic. For a while, the Remigio story continued at a Testaccio-located, chic champagne bar called Barnaba (I went once). However, I decided to keep this post alive as it pays homage to the magic of residential Rome. And the historic walking route along Via Appia Antica is still there for you!