The vibrant Pigalle district is among my favourite neighbourhoods in Paris, and Pratz one of the most delicious addresses – especially for natural wine lovers!

Just below Montmartre, a few steps from Pigalle metro station, Pratz is one of the nicest wine bars I know in Paris. If natural wines and tasty tapas make your heart beat faster, this tiny cave à manger is the place to be. Besides, half-Catalan owner Thomas Babot is a fantastic guy to chat with.

A wintery encounter

I still remember my first time in Pratz. February, two years ago. A midday hangover after a hectic work trip to Champagne with a photographer and a chef. For our third article, we were browsing wine bars in Paris with a way too tight schedule.

As we open the door and see Babot’s smiling face, life suddenly seems brighter. First, I order an entire pan-fried Reblochon cheese with a glass of Champagne Louis Barthelemy’s decently priced Amethyste Brut. Greasy, bubbly breakfast feels just perfect for a chilly day in Paris 9th.

Perfect for hot summer days

My third time in Pratz was damn cosy as well. A hot August afternoon in Paris, I popped in for some tapas and white wine before climbing up to Montmartre for the sunset breeze.

This time I have more time to explore the wine shelves where Babot concentrates on French natural wine. However, his Catalan roots are visible in the wine selection where about 10 wines are available by the glass. The selection varies, so better ask Thomas what he has in mind for you. 

Just like many locals who come to Pratz to buy things to take home, I end up buying a bottle of very young and tight anjou blanc. Even though other customers seem to know each other, at Pratz you never feel like an outsider. That’s the skill of a restaurateur; creating such an atmosphere.

Before I head up to Montmartre, I ask Thomas if he has any tips for places nearby. As much as I love the views that open up from Montmartre, I often feel a bit lost there when it comes to food and wine. Also the crowds in summer can be unbearable, but only on a bunch of streets surrounding the Sacre-Coeur.

Thomas instantly comes up with an idea.

New favourite place in Paris 18th

On the opposite side of the Montmartre hill, La Rallonge steals my heart. Arriving too early with my friend Anu, we meet a smiling guy who asks us to return at seven.

Punctually at seven we stand at the door, hungry and excited. From the first moment we talk with Kevin, I understand why Thomas recommended La Rallonge. Both guys have a stellar service attitude. And insider tips are the best since I hadn’t heard of La Rallonge before – even though it’s the “little brother” of popular fine-dining mecca La Table d’Eugene.

I don’t know whether it’s Kevin’s roots, but Iberian influence shows on the menu of La Rallonge. Here you can enjoy first-class chorizo. Also, I see one of my favourite dishes, pulpo a la gallega, on the menu. However, we start with squid. Still +30 outside, the squid plate is a wonderfully fresh start for our soirée.

HOT STUFF FOR HOT WEATHER?

Our second choice, instead, is nothing but summery. It is hot and steamy, with one of the best broths ever! It looks like risotto, but is made of tiny macaronis.

The moment we taste it, we fall dumb. This super simple portion is so astonishingly delicious that we have to order another pot to share.

Looking back, I still haven’t managed to figure it out how come that “risotto” was so tasty? There was mushrooms and truffle in it, I think?

Along with tasty food, nice wines and lovely atmosphere of both places, I admit that Thomas and Kevin are strikingly good-looking guys. But just after a few minutes with them, you “forget” about their looks. Unlike many men with looks (and egos), these two come from another universe.

So, those who still stick with the saying that one gets rude service in Paris must live in another reality – or hang around in wrong places near major touristic attractions? I’ve always been treated nicely in Paris.

And when it comes to genuine service, Pratz and La Rallonge are star-class.

59 Rue Jean-Baptiste Pigalle. Tue-Wed 17–23, Thu-Fri 11–15 and 17–23, Saturdays 11–23. Tel: +33 (0)1 77 10 67 03. Metro Lines: 2 & 12 (Pigalle).

 

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UPDATE: After 2017, Kevin quit at La Rallonge. Later, probably during the pandemic (2020-2021), it closed for good.