One of the highlights of this year, 2017, was meeting Jean-Baptiste Lécaillon, Champagne Louis Roederer’s charismatic Cellar Master.
When I was asked to interview Lécaillon at Grand Champagne Helsinki 2017, it would have been insane to turn it down. As my article will be published later this year, I’ll share some other aspects of that interview in this blog post.
Being at ease with all kinds of people, I must admit there were some butterflies in my stomach as I entered this Finnish champagne event. Despite my numerous trips to the Champagne region, I was well aware that one does not get to meet – let alone interview – Roederer’s Chef de Cave every day.
The greater the winemaker, the nicer the guy. This applies perfectly to JB Lécaillon. As we talk, I quickly realise he is so nice that there is no need to be formal (something I’ve never been skilled at).
In fact, Jean-Baptiste is one of those people who makes you feel as if you had known him for years. Our conversation meanders from winemaking to music, from childhood memories to design, from environmentalism to pleasure.
“As I joined the Roederer Team in 1989 after making wine in California and Tasmania, I was a committed Pinot Noir boy. Today I love Chardonnay as well. I love both grapes so much that if I had to choose one, it would be as harsh as asking someone which of his children he prefers.”
Ecosystem-friendly grape growing
Whatever the grape or blend, a great champagne is born on the vineyard – and that is not possible without healthy grapes. One of the key figures in shaping Jean-Baptiste Lécaillon’s approach has been (the late) Bill Mollison whom he met while working in Tasmania.
“Getting to know Bill and his permaculture vision was the turning point. From him I learnt how viticulture is about taking care of the entire ecosystem; being less dependent on chemicals, and working with nature instead of against nature.”
When young Jean-Baptiste returned to Champagne, he encountered difficulties with the old guys:
“25 years ago, people laughed at my organic endeavours. Today, more than 90 % of Roederer’s vineyards are farmed organically. But biodynamics is a different thing, and I admit that when we first trialled with biodynamics in 2000, we were not prepared enough. Nowadays 100 hectares of our 240-hectare total are farmed according to biodynamic principles.”
Why there is so little organic estates in Champagne?
Jean-Baptiste Lécaillon is delighted to see more and more champagne houses paying attention to the wellbeing of their vineyards and ecosystem-friendly viticulture. Although organic farming is on the rise in Champagne, it is still minuscule (less than 2 % of the vineyards are certified). The challenge is the rainy, ever-more capricous weather that makes organic and biodynamic farming difficult.
“Challenges inspire me, but I am a realist. If you want to become certified biodynamic here in France, 100 percent of your vineyards have to be biodynamic, which is very hard to reach. But we can show our commitment by starting converting. At the moment, 10 hectares of Roederer vineyards are Demeter certified.”
Lécaillon notes that many vignerons are doing a great job in organic and biodynamic viticulture. But for him, being green is not about the size of the estate:
“As Roederer’s Cellar Master, I have proven that also champagne houses can make organic and even biodynamic champagnes. Sometimes people categorise too strictly between the champagne houses and independent vignerons. There are great, good and bad examples in both. And while concentrating on either of these, the attention is driven away from co-operatives, an integral third part in the big picture of Champagne.”
The smile reaches Jean-Baptiste Lécaillon’s eyes as he speaks about Benoît Lahaye’s champagnes. I couldn’t agree more since Lahaye’s bottlings are among my favourites too. He also admits having “a special sweet spot” for Alexandre Chartogne because “he’s so young… and so unbelievably good!”. Me too, I love Chartogne-Taillet!
Taste is subjective and emotional
Even though we easily bond with people with similar tastebuds, I agree with Lécaillon emphasising the importance of personal palates and differing opinions. What pleases your palate is all that matters. If an internationally acknowledged and admired critic from a neighbouring country gives 80 points for a champagne I adore, it does not change the way how I perceive that wine.
“If you ask me, champagne is to be enjoyed with great emotion. Letting oneself be charmed by it, be wrapped in its sense-tickling essence. I have always believed that tasting champagne tends to bring us closer to our inner selves, to those creatures we fundamentally are.”
The Master Class by Jean-Baptiste Lécaillon
Our interview is over. We change the room, and Lécaillon starts his tasting with Brut Nature 2009, a Pinot Noir dominated blend of all three main grapes. This 25 % oak fermented champagne is the only 100 % biodynamic champagne in the Roederer portfolio – and a perfect starter with its fine, delicate nose packed with white flowers, crème patisseur and sophisticated peach aromas.
Fresh, utterly pure and elegant, nicely vinous yet crunchy on the palate, with some lime and nuts in the finish. Slightly lower pressure (around 4,5 bars) feels good on this champagne that Jean-Baptiste playfully calls “The Dark Side of Cristal” due to the clay soil where its grapes grow.
“As the label says, I made Brut Nature together with designer Philippe Starck which meant intensive talks about arts with him. I decided to keep my mind open and see what happens… and the result was a non-dosé champagne. Of course, we cellar masters also need to capture the prevailing spirit: the taste preferences of the consumers are drier than ever before.”
He continues:
“When the grapes are perfectly ripe, there is no need to mask the fruit with sugar. At Roederer, the grapes really need to be ripe since our wines never undergo malolactic fermentation.”
Love at first sip
The second wine, Louis Roederer Rosé 2012, is pure love right away. This vintage rosé champagne seduces you with sophisticated aromas of raspberry, white chocolate and floral perfume. The spicy-fruity taste is super fresh, rich and silky – and astonishingly long.
This wonderful rosé, consisting 63 % Pinot Noir and 37 % Chardonnay, is a concretisation of the term seamless. Before Lécaillon’s Master Class, I had doubts whether I understand what people mean by talking about seamless texture. Now I do. The pressure is a bit higher (~5 bars) than in Roederer & Starck Brut Nature. The dosage is 9 grams per litre, but without knowing I would have guessed around 6 grams as the wine feels wonderfully dry in mouth.
The rosé is followed by another 2012, Louis Roederer Vintage. Rich nose with classical brioche aromas, yellow plums and almonds, just to name some. The taste is a perfectly balanced between freshness, lime, cream and spices. In the end, beautiful saliva effect makes you drool for more.
As I see it, the charm of this 70 % Pinot Noir and 30 % Chardonnay champagne is in ever-growing taste. A beautifully growing crescendo leaves more sensory memories behind than revealing everything right away.
We continue with Blanc de Blancs 2010, a bright and beautifully fresh yet complex Chardonnay that perfectly captures the spirit of Avize. Fragrant flowers, citrus fruit, crème chantilly, butter and a hint of vanilla on the nose. Airy and precise acid line. Pleasant, purely fruity and fluffy mouthfeel.
CRISTAL-CLEAR MOMENTS
The tasting is approaching its climax: Cristal 2009 is poured into our glasses. 60 % Pinot noir, the rest is Chardonnay. As expected, still a baby. Slightly closed nose needs time in the glass to open up. Once it does, I distinguish citrus cream, hazelnuts, a hint of menthol and vanilla aromas.
To be honest, I would love to have an hour of time to track the development of this Cristal in the glass. For many champagne lovers, silky Cristal is the beacon of a perfectly made vintage champagne. This 2009 surely has a glorious future ahead, but thinking of current enjoyability, I was blown away with both 2012’s, the Rosé in particular.
As the Master Class is over, I need to breathe for a while. The day has been so full of excitement and enthusiasm, learning and listening, tasting and talking. Contrary to my decision to go home right after Roederer Master Class, in the evening I still find myself chatting to Jean-Baptiste Lécaillon:
“My next step? My dream? Well, I would love to find a new model of bringing together organic and not-yet organic farmers. To create a win-win collaboration for all of us.”
Walking home hours later, I realise I would never have imagined that something could steal my heart like Champagne has done. But it has. And I can’t wait to spend the rest of this summer in that effervescent region I so fervently love.
See you in Reims, JB.
