Revived: September 7, 2026 (Published: February 5, 2017)

If you get tired of tourist masses, head to Paris 20th and Moncoeur Belleville! Just above hip Parc de Belleville, this cosy corner bistro offers stunning views over Paris and a perfect spot for a delicious get-together or Sunday brunch.

Spending summer 2016 in the 20th arrondissement of Paris, I loved those days of walking, running and cycling around. As my 5-week stay stretched to mid-August, many restaurants were closed for holidays.

Luckily I happened to pass by Moncoeur Belleville on my first July Sunday in the city. This laid-back restaurant isn’t about culinary fireworks, but it’s a place you leave with a smile on your face. And its Sunday brunch (19 €) is among the nicest in Paris.

Moncoeur Belleville’s panoramic terrace is popular among the locals, so book a table or go early – or only later when the brunch is about to end. If the place looks crowded, do not turn away. Despite people waiting for a table, it never takes long to fit in.

Also, if you come really late, this place is open past midnight on Sunday. Not that typical for Paris!

On Sunday afternoons the terrace of Moncoeur Belleville is favoured by hipsters and 30+ couples with babies. But you may as well spot stylish elderly ladies reading books, wearing hats from another era.

Once I popped in for a lunch during the week and ordered classic bavette (in the main photo of this post). It is still among the best bavette I have eaten – thanks to that wonderfully pungent mustard served with tender, very well prepared meat.

And the wine? Just order a ¼, ½ or whole carafe of simple Sancerre and enjoy this neighbourhood with residential vibe and magnificent urban views. At least for a wine professional like me, it feels rejuvenating to forget about analytical tasting every now and then.

For summer thirst, Moncoeur Belleville offers easy-going organic wines from Languedoc, Côtes-du-Rhône and Bourgogne. And the cocktails here are delicious! I never tried any of the red wines as July-August 2016 was unbelievably hot in Paris, and I was already training for Marathon du Médoc.

Unlike some Trip Advisor reviewers, I have always received hearty and groovy service at Moncoeur Belleville. Sometimes you need to wait a bit, yes. But when a place is hugely popular, patience is a virtue.

After a meal at Moncoeur Belleville, I recommend walking around Belleville to catch a glimpse of how the locals live. Also, if Edith Piaf ‘s voice gives you goose bumps, Belleville is the place to be. One of the greatest voices of our times spent her childhood just around the corner, at 72 Rue de Belleville.

Moncoeur Belleville
1 Rue des Envierges
Mon-Sun 09:30–01:30 –> breakfast, lunch & dinner service hrs on the website
Tel: +33 (0)1 43 66 38 54
Métro: Pyrénées (line 11), Couronnes (line 2)

UPDATE (2026): Delicious Sunday brunches are still served 11:45– 16:00 (and I’m definitely going again when in Paris for the next time!). Otherwise, you can order from the menu – or go just for a glass.