Revived: August 14, 2026 (Published: June 24, 2017)
One of my highlights of this year, 2017, was meeting Jean-Baptiste Lécaillon, Champagne Louis Roederer’s charismatic Cellar Master.
When I was asked to interview Lécaillon at Grand Champagne Helsinki 2017, it would have been insane to turn it down. As my article will be published later this year, I’ll share some other aspects of that interview in this post.
Being at ease with all kinds of people, I must admit there were butterflies in my stomach as I entered this champagne event. Despite my numerous trips to the Champagne region, I was well aware that one does not get to meet – let alone interview – Champagne Roederer’s Chef de Cave every day.
The greater the winemaker, the nicer the guy. This applies perfectly to JB Lécaillon. As we talk, I quickly realise he is so nice that there is no need to be formal (something I’ve never been skilled at).
In fact, Jean-Baptiste is one of those people who makes you feel as if you had known him for years. Our conversation meanders from winemaking to music, from childhood memories to design, from environmentalism to pleasure.
“As I joined the Roederer Team in 1989 after making wine in California and Tasmania, I was a Pinot Noir boy. Today I love Chardonnay as well. I love both grapes so much that if I had to choose one, it would be as harsh as asking you which of your children you prefer.”
Respecting the ecosystem
During my trips to Champagne, I have learnt that whatever the grape or blend, great champagne is born on the vineyard. That is not possible without healthy grapes. One of the key figures in shaping Jean-Baptiste’s approach has been (the late) Bill Mollison whom he met while working in Tasmania.
“Getting to know Bill and his permaculture vision was the turning point. From him I learnt how viticulture is about taking care of the entire ecosystem. Being less dependent on chemicals, and working with nature instead of against nature.”
When young Jean-Baptiste returned to Champagne, he encountered difficulties with the old guys:
“25 years ago, people laughed at my organic endeavours. Today, more than 90 % of Roederer’s vineyards are farmed organically. But biodynamics is a different thing, and I admit that when we first trialled with biodynamics in 2000, we were not prepared enough. Nowadays 100 hectares of our 240-hectare total are farmed according to biodynamic principles.”
I am impressed. None of the big Champagne houses comes anywhere near.
Why there are so few organic estates in Champagne?
Jean-Baptiste Lécaillon tells me that he is delighted to see more champagne houses paying attention to the wellbeing of their vineyards. Although organic farming is on the rise in Champagne, it is still minuscule (less than 2 % of the vineyards are certified). Rainy, ever-more capricous weather makes organic and biodynamic farming difficult.
“Challenges inspire me, but I am a realist. If you want to become certified biodynamic here in France, 100 percent of your vineyards have to be biodynamic, which is very hard to reach. But we can show our commitment by starting converting. At the moment, 10 hectares of Roederer vineyards are Demeter-certified.”
When I ask him about smaller vignerons, Lécaillon feels that many of them are doing a great job in organic and biodynamic viticulture. Yet for him, being green is not about the size of the estate:
“As Roederer’s Cellar Master, I have proven that also champagne houses can make organic and biodynamic champagnes. Sometimes people categorise too strictly between the houses and vignerons. There are great, good and bad examples in both. And concentrating on these two, the attention is driven away from co-operatives, an integral third part in the big picture of Champagne.”
As a grower champagne specialist and huge fan of organic and biodynamic champagnes, I ask about Jean-Baptiste Lécaillon’s likings. I notice the smile reaches his eyes as he speaks about Benoît Lahaye. I couldn’t agree more since Lahaye’s champagnes are among my favourites, too.
Lécaillon also admits having “a special sweet spot” for Alexandre Chartogne because “he’s so young and so unbelievably good!”. Me too, I love Chartogne-Taillet (and Alex)!
Taste is subjective and emotional
Even though I easily bond with people with similar tastebuds, I agree with Lécaillon on the importance of personal palates and differing opinions. What pleases my – or your – palate is all that matters.
I have already noticed that if an internationally renowned critic from a neighbouring country gives 85 points for a champagne I adore, it does not change the way how I perceive that wine.
“If you ask me, champagne is to be enjoyed with great emotion. Letting oneself be charmed by it, be wrapped in its sense-tickling essence. I have always believed that tasting champagne tends to bring us closer to our inner selves, to those creatures we fundamentally are.”
I agree 100 % with him.
And then I got to taste with him…
My interview is over, and I follow Lécaillon to the tasting room. He starts his Master Class with Brut Nature 2009, a Pinot Noir dominated blend of all three main grapes. This 25 % oak fermented champagne is the only 100 % biodynamic wine in the Roederer portfolio – and a perfect starter with its delicate nose packed with white flowers, crème patisseur and sophisticated peach aromas.
I am very fond of pas-dosé champagnes, and this brut nature doesn’t let me down. It is fresh, utterly pure and nicely vinous yet crunchy on the palate, with some lime and nuts in the finish.
In my opinion, slightly lower pressure (around 4,5 bars) feels good on this champagne that Jean-Baptiste playfully calls “The Dark Side of Cristal” due to the clay soil where its grapes grow.
“As the label says, I made this Brut Nature with designer Philippe Starck which meant intense talks about art with him. I decided to keep my mind open and see what happens… and the result was a non-dosé champagne. Of course, I also see that the taste preferences of the consumers are drier than ever before.”
He continues:
“When the grapes are perfectly ripe, there is no need to mask the fruit with sugar. The grapes really need to be ripe since Roederer wines never undergo malolactic fermentation.”
Wow. I did not remember that.
LOVE AT FIRST SIP
For me the second wine, Louis Roederer Rosé 2012, is pure love right away. This vintage rosé champagne seduces me with sophisticated aromas of raspberry, white chocolate and floral perfume. The spicy-fruity taste is fresh, rich and silky – and astonishingly long.
In my mouth this wonderful rosé, consisting 63 % Pinot Noir and 37 % Chardonnay, concretises the term seamless. Before Lécaillon’s Master Class, I had doubts whether I understand what people mean by talking about seamless texture. Now I do.
The pressure of this Rosé is a bit higher (~5 bars) than in Roederer & Starck Brut Nature. The dosage is 9 grams per litre, but without knowing it, I would have guessed around 6 grams as the wine feels wonderfully dry in my mouth.
The rosé is followed by another 2012, Louis Roederer Vintage. I am immediately smitten by its rich nose of classic brioche aromas, yellow plums and almonds. The taste is perfectly balanced between freshness, lime, cream and spices. In the end, beautiful saliva effect makes me drool for more.
As I see it, the charm of this 70 % Pinot Noir and 30 % Chardonnay champagne is in its ever-growing taste. I call this type of wines crescendo wines. They never lay all cards on the table.
We continue with Blanc de Blancs 2010. For me, this bright and beautifully fresh yet complex Chardonnay captures perfectly the spirit of Avize. I track fragrant flowers, citrus fruit, crème chantilly, butter and some vanilla on the nose. Fluffy texture, precise acid line and pleasant, purely fruity taste make me nod.
CRISTAL-CLEAR MOMENTS
The tasting is approaching its climax as Cristal 2009 is poured into our glasses. 60 % Pinot noir, the rest is Chardonnay. As I expected, still a baby. Slightly closed nose needs time in the glass to open up. Once it does, I distinguish citrus cream, hazelnuts, a hint of menthol and vanilla aromas.
To be honest, I would love to have an hour of time to follow the development of this Cristal in the glass. For many champagne lovers, silky Cristal is the beacon of a perfectly made vintage champagne. I feel this 2009 surely has a glorious future ahead, but thinking of current enjoyability, I was blown away with both 2012 vintages, the Rosé in particular.
As the Master Class is over, I need to breathe for a while. My day has been so full of excitement and enthusiasm, learning and listening, tasting and talking. Contrary to my promise to go home right after the Roederer Master Class, in the evening I still find myself chatting to Jean-Baptiste Lécaillon:
“My next step? My dream? I would love to find a new model of bringing together organic and not-yet organic farmers. To create a win-win collaboration for us all.”
Walking home hours later, I realise I would never have imagined that something could steal my heart like Champagne has done. But it has. And I can’t wait to spend the rest of this summer in that effervescent region I so fervently love.
See you in Reims, JB.
Champagne Louis Roederer is not open for the public.
Grand Champagne Helsinki will be arranged again in spring 2027.
