Revived: August 27, 2026 (Published: November 2, 2016)

The best thing in cafés in Paris is people-watching over a cup of coffee. These cafés are neighbourhood gems that make you want to stay a little longer.

BROKEN BISCUITS

In every city there are places where I keep returning to, time after time. In Paris, one of my most beloved corners is lush and beautiful Square Maurice Gardette in the heart of the 11th arrondissement.

This adorable square has a strong residential vibe. Old uncles are reading newspapers in the park while kids are frolicking around them. The surrounding houses are magnificently renovated.

In one of them, on a passage full of artisan boutiques is a tiny café, Broken Biscuits. Their pretty entrance looks like a film set, and the moment you open the door you feel at home. Having started this patisserie two years ago, the young Irish-British couple bakes pastries for the counter and plays great soul music.

The latte here is wonderfully textured and tasty, with a particularly lingering finish. As I sip it with delish almond tart, I watch neighbourhood people and stylish hipsters pop in. They all seem to know each other. Established in 2015, Broken Biscuits is a place where I’d bring Someone Precious.

Broken Biscuits
10 Passage Rochebrune
Wed-Fri 8:30–18, Sat-Sun 10–19.
Métro: Saint-Maur (3), St-Ambroise (9)

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UPDATE (2024): Broken Biscuits moved from Paris 11th to Paris 10th, to 18 Rue du Faubourg Poissonnière where it serves you Mon–Fri 8:30–16, Sat 8:30–15.

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BOOT CAFÉ

A sky-blue wooden door with old Cordonnerie letters. A space so tiny you hardly fit in. Boot Café is located in popular Le Marais, the prettiest arrondissement of Paris, yet enough off the beaten track.

Opened in early 2014, Boot Café prepares its café au lait with utmost care and serves it accompanied by a cute smile. Soft shades of lilac and cream white give a calming vibe, even though we nearly sit on each other’s lap.

There are only six seats so if you don’t get yours straight away, hang on. After their cookies you have forgotten that you had to wait.

Among the customers chic is the keyword. I sit next to an extravagantly stylish Parisian couple and two Chinese fashionistas with huge shopping bags. However, this charming coffee heaven is light years away from super fancy, über-polished Marais spots.

Boot Café
9 Rue du Pont aux Choux
Mon-Thu 9–16:30, Fri-Sat 10–17:30, Sunday 10–17
Métro: St-Sébastien-Froissart (line 8), Oberkampf (5, 9)

LE COMPTOIR GÉNÉRAL

Near Canal Saint-Martin, Le Comptoir Général is an exciting mixture of a cultural centre, bar-restaurant, music venue and second-hand clothing shop. Known for its off-beat ambience, this place attracts locals and travellers to chill out while giving a glimpse of Franco-African history. I also love Le Petit Noir, the café of Le Comptoir Général.

I still remember Le Petit Noir’s LCG – one of the best coffees I have enjoyed at the cafés in Paris. Although it took a while to prepare, nobody in the queue was sighing loudly. The result was well worth waiting for: perfectly creamy, thick and smooth texture.

Just settle into one of the chairs or enjoy your coffee by the window. The sense of time is easily lost here. Last spring I ended up watching the raindrops whipping the window for two hours. If that’s not a sign of feeling good, then what is?

Le Comptoir Général
80 Quai Jemmapes
Tue-Wed 18–01, Thu-Fri 18–02, Sat 15–02, Sun 11–21
Métro: Jacques Bonsergent (line 5), Goncourt (line 11)

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UPDATE (2023): Le Comptoir Général still functions in the old warehouse at the address above, but its concept and interior has changed to a restaurant-bar & venue. The coffee sortiment remains fantastic!

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TEN BELLES 

The 10th arrondissement of Paris offers us countless cosy cafés. But if I have to pick one, forever-hip Ten Belles is my address when I want well-brewed coffee at a relaxed setting.

Locally roasted beans to this tiny café come from the neighbouring arrondissement, Belleville Brûleries. The sandwiches delight you with their freshness, and the cakes are juicy and tasty.

Amongst my favourite cafés in Paris, Ten Belles has two other places (in Bastille and in Saint-Germain). I’ve been mostly going to this original address. As the place is popular and space is limited, at times I take away. But whenever possible, I prefer staying.

Behind the adjoining door you’ll find Myrthe, a great épicerie for delicious gluten-free pastries, tasty juices and healthy veggie lunches (last time I enjoyed a rice salad with 5 €!). You can also buy tea, cheese, marmalades and confitures to take home.

Or grab a bottle of natural wine, walk 100 metres to Canal Saint-Martin and blend among the locals. On summer evenings there’s certain magic on the canal bank when the sun goes down, and you may end up winning the heart of a true Parisian…

Ten Belles
10 Rue de la Grange aux Belles
Mon-Fri: 8:30–16:30, Sat-Sun: 9–17:30
Métro: Colonel Fabien (line 2), Jacques Bonsergent (5)

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UPDATE (2022): Unfortunately, lovely Myrthe closed its doors last year; probably due to the challenges posed by the pandemic.

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RADIODAYS 

Living in the 20th arrondissement for a month last summer, I often walked Rue Alibert on my way home. There is something cheerful in these hoods, though the intersection of Rue Alibert and Rue Bichat shall always be remembered for horrible November 2015 shootings targeted at Le Carillon and Le Petit Cambodge – both places I still go to.

Just a stone’s throw away is a tiny, relatively new café called Radiodays. It charms you with great coffee, awesome service and old gramophone that also plays the albums you pick from the shelves.

Clearly popular amongst 30+ parisiens & parisiennes, Radiodays was one of my favourite cafés in Paris last summer, and it still fascinates me.

Radio Days
5 Rue Alibert
Mon & Wed-Fri: 8–17, Sat-Sun:9–17
Métro: Goncourt (line 11)

LES SAINTES CHÉRIES

Furnished with lollipop colours, funny animals and cactuses, I fell in love with Les Saintes Chéries right away. But inspiring interior and hearty service would never be enough if the coffee wasn’t good.

Luckily the cappuccino is fluffy and featherlight on my lips, bursting with flavour. Also ginger juice and avocado smoothie are definite must-tries here! Besides, their small boutique sells nearly everything from furniture and jewelry to retro textiles.

If you are not in a hurry, walk along Rue du Château d’Eau. After trendy cafés and quirky bistros, the street changes completely. You will pass crowds of African guys hanging in front of beauty parlours, waiting for their missus to get hairdo & nails done.

This end of Rue du Château d’Eau has not yet been hit by gentrification that is rapidly changing once so edgy 10th arrondissement into a bobo playground.

Les Saintes Chéries
1 Rue du Château d’Eau
Open daily 11–19
Métro: Château d’Eau (line 4)

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UPDATE (2020): Les Saintes Chéries still operates, but as a charming decor & gift shop.

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