Skip the iconic ones for these lovely cafés in Paris!

The best thing about cafés in Paris is people-watching over a cup of coffee. These cafés are neighbourhood gems that make you want to stay a little longer.

BROKEN BISCUITS

In every city there are places where I keep returning to, time after time. In Paris, one of my beloved corners is lush and beautiful Square Maurice Gardette in the heart of the 11th arrondissement.

This adorable square has a strong residential vibe. Old uncles reading newspapers in the park while kids are frolicking around. The surrounding houses are magnificently renovated.

In one of them, on a passageway full of artisan boutiques, is a tiny café called Broken Biscuits. The pretty entrance looks like a film set, and the moment you open the door you feel like at home. Having established this patisserie two years ago, the young Irish-British couple is baking pastries to their counter and playing great soul music.

The latte here is wonderfully textured and tasty, with a particularly lingering finish. As I sip it with delish almond tart, I watch neighbourhood people and stylish hipsters pop in. They all seem to know each other. Founded in 2015, Broken Biscuits is a place where I’d bring Someone Precious.

Broken Biscuits
10 Passage Rochebrune
Wed-Fri 8:30–18, Sat-Sun 10–19.
Métro: Saint-Maur (3), St-Ambroise (9)

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UPDATE (2024): Broken Biscuits has moved from Paris 11th to Paris 10th, to 18 Rue du Faubourg Poissonnière. Mon to Fri 8:30–16, Sat 8:30–16.

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BOOT CAFÉ

A sky-blue wooden door with old Cordonnerie letters. A space so tiny you hardly fit in. Boot Café is located in popular Le Marais, the prettiest arrondissement of Paris, yet enough off the beaten track.

Opened in early 2014, at Boot Café the au lait is prepared with utter care and accompanied by a cute smile. Soft shades of lilac and cream white give a calming vibe, even though we nearly sit on each other’s lap. There are only six seats so if you don’t get yours straight away, hang on. After their cookies you’ve forgotten that you had to wait.

To sum it up, among other customers chic is the keyword. I sit next to an extravagantly stylish Parisian couple and two Chinese fashionistas with huge shopping bags. However, this charming coffee heaven is light years away from super fancy and polished Marais spots.

Boot Café
9 Rue du Pont aux Choux
Mon-Thu 9–16:30, Fri-Sat 10–17:30, Sunday 10–17
Métro: St-Sébastien-Froissart (line 8), Oberkampf (5, 9)

LE PETIT NOIR / LE COMPTOIR GÉNÉRAL

Near Canal Saint-Martin, Le Comptoir Général is an exciting mixture of a cultural centre, African museum, bar-restaurant, music venue and second-hand clothing mecca. Known for its off-beat ambience, this complex attracts locals and travellers to chill out while giving a glimpse of Franco-African history. I also love the café, Le Petit Noir.

I still remember Le Petit Noir’s LCG – one of the best coffees I have enjoyed at the cafés in Paris. Although it took a while to prepare, nobody in the queue was sighing out loud. The result was worth waiting for: perfectly creamy, thick and smooth texture.

Just settle into one of the chairs or enjoy your coffee by the window. The sense of time is easily lost here. Last spring I ended up watching the raindrops whipping the window for two hours. If that’s not a sign of feeling good, then what is?

Le Petit N0ir / Le Comptoir Général
80 Quai Jemmapes
Tue-Wed 18–01, Thu-Fri 18–02, Sat 15–02, Sun 11–21
Métro: Jacques Bonsergent (line 5), Goncourt (line 11)

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UPDATE (2022): Le Comptoir Général still functions in the old warehouse at the address above, but its concept and interior has changed to a restaurant bar & venue. The coffee sortiment remains fantastic!

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TEN BELLES

Laid-back Paris 10th offers us countless cosy cafés. But if I have to pick one, forever-hip Ten Belles is my address when I want well-brewed coffee at a relaxed setting. Locally roasted beans to this tiny cafeteria come directly from Paris 19, Belleville Brûleries. The sandwiches delight you with their freshness, and the cakes are juicy and tasty.

Among my favourite cafés in Paris, Ten Belles has two other places (in Bastille and in Saint-Germain). I’ve been mostly going to this original address in the 10th arrondissement. As the place is popular and the space is tiny, sometimes I take away my coffee. But whenever possible, I prefer staying.

Behind the adjoining door you’ll find Myrthe, a great épicerie for delicious gluten-free pastries, tasty juices and healthy veggie lunches (last time I enjoyed a rice salad with 5 €!) Likewise, you can buy tea, cheese, marmalades and confitures to take home.

Or grab a bottle of natural wine, walk 100 metres to Canal Saint-Martin and blend among the locals. For a Finn spending summers by the sea, the canal is small yet there’s certain magic when the sun goes down. On a summer evening on the canal bank you may end up winning the heart of a true Parisian…

Ten Belles
10 Rue de la Grange aux Belles
Mon-Fri: 8:30–16:30, Sat-Sun: 9–17:30
Métro: Colonel Fabien (line 2), Jacques Bonsergent (5)

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UPDATE (2022): Unfortunately, atmospheric Myrthe closed its doors last year – probably due to the difficulties caused by the pandemic.

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RADIODAYS

Living in the 20th arrondissement of Paris last summer, I often walked or cycled via Rue Alibert on my way home. There is something cheerful in these hoods, though the intersection of Alibert and Rue Bichat shall always be remembered for horrible November 2015 shootings targeted at Le Carillon and Le Petit Cambodge – both places I still go to.

Just a stone’s throw away is a tiny, relatively new café called Radiodays. It charms you with great coffee, awesome service and old gramophone that plays the albums you pick from the shelves.

Popular among 30+ parisiens and parisiennes, this Radiodays was one of my favourite cafés in Paris last summer, and it still fascinates me.

Radio Days
5 Rue Alibert
Mon & Wed-Fri: 8–17, Sat-Sun:9–17
Métro: Goncourt (line 11)

LES SAINTES CHÉRIES

Furnished with lollipop colours, funny animals and cactuses, I fell in love with Les Saintes Chéries right away. But inspiring interior and hearty service would never be enough if the coffee wasn’t good.

Luckily the cappuccino is fluffy and featherlight on my lips, bursting with flavour. Also ginger juice and avocado smoothie are definite must-tries here. Their small boutique downstairs sells nearly everything from furniture and jewelry to retro textiles.

If you are not in a hurry afterwards, walk along Rue du Château d’Eau. After trendy cafés and quirky bistros, the street changes completely. You will pass crowds of African guys hanging in front of beauty parlours, waiting for their missuses to get their hairdos and nails done.

This end of Rue du Château d’Eau has not yet been hit by gentrification that is rapidly changing once so edgy 10th arrondissement into a bobo playground.

Les Saintes Chéries
1 Rue du Château d’Eau
Open daily 11–19
Métro: Château d’Eau (line 4)

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UPDATE (2018): Les Saintes Chéries still operates, but as a charming decor & gift shop.

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